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Native Plant Gardens: Editing

Depending on your garden style and goals, editing can make a big difference.

shady garden path

There are so many styles of gardening from modern to formal to transitional to completely wild. Native plants can fit into any of those designs. If your goal is solely supporting habitats and wildlife, you may limit your editing to removing invasives which will pop up from time to time thanks to seeds deposited by wind, birds or other wildlife. If you have a modern garden, removing unwanted plants may be a more frequent endeavor.


I give this a lot of thought because in my 1/8 acre of an urban garden, I want to try lots of different native plants and plant as many keystone species as possible. Keystone species, like goldenrod and asters, provide outsized ecological value compared to other native perennial flowers. At the same time, they are blousy, vigorous growers. Having lots of plants and many which are energetic in a small space can quickly lead to a very wild look. I am very mindful that, as popular as native plants have become and beloved as the idea of pollinator gardens is, wild gardens are not the mainstream norm. I want my garden to be something many people will think is at least interesting and hopefully desirable. My favorite thing is when someone walks by and asks about a native plant and I can share some info with them.



To that end, I often find myself editing my garden around this time of year. Everything is growing abundantly. Removing plants, to transplant to another location or share with friends, can make an enormous difference.



There are a couple of phone tools we now have that can make editing easier. Black and white photographs are surprisingly revealing. By removing the distraction of color, you can more readily see shapes, forms, and texture and where you might want to edit. In the photo above, the only leaf contrast is the oakleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia). Otherwise the plants all look generally the same. Adding in different leaf shapes or repeating the oakleaf hydrangeas might help.



The erase feature for photo editing allows you to easily remove a plant from your photo to give you a sene of what removing a plant might look like. It's easy to see what removing the hanging basket would look like.


This is a long narrow area that probably needs more editing than I did! I am sharing it in case it sparks an idea for you in your garden. It is located to the rear of a pie shaped lot and is about 30' long and 15' wide. Most of the space is directly beneath a row of three mature eastern red cedar trees (Juniperis virginiana). The soils are fairly dry. The area gets about three hours of early morning sun and is otherwise in shade.

garden before weeding
Ashe's Magnolia

This is where I started - not the prettiest sight! The small Ashe's magnolia (Magnolia ashei) tree is about 6 feet in front of the rear fence. I decided to remove it because the large leaves of the still young tree stopped your eye well short of the fence.

garden with blue fence
Without the Ashe's Magnolia

Once it was removed, I looked at the beds on either side. The right looked scraggly. In addition to a row of non-native peonies, there are three coralberry shrubs (Symphoricarpos orbiculatus), a sweetshrub (Calycanthus floridus), a couple of anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum), and a wild violet ground cover (Viola sororia). The side directly under the trees incudes goldenrod (solidago), mountain mint (Pycnanthemum), wild hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens), heuchera 'Autumn Bride' (Heuchera villosa 'Autumn Bride') and two types of carex.

shady garden
Coralberry Shrubs Removed

The straight species coralberry spreads by suckering and had started to send out runners. I removed those three shrubs. There were also two anise hyssop perennials on the left and I moved those to the right to create a line of those on one side.

garden path
After Editing

Next, I moved the eastern star sedge (Carex radiata) to the left and removed the wild violets that migrated to the center. (There are still lots of wild violets in both side beds). I also moved the fleabane (Erigeron pulchellus "Lynnhaven Carpet') to another part of the garden. This neatened the area considerably. Last, I moved the topiary near the fence to provide some sort of focal point.



Adding stepping stones or mulch would also bring a bit more order to the area. Our phones allow us to try out so many options, adding or subtracting! Do you have editing to do in your garden? Tips to suggest? Please share your ideas!


Happy Gardening.







12 Comments


Guest
Jul 25

This is a great post--so many great ideas. And your thoughts about native plants fitting into just about any garden style are so well-said.

Beth@PlantPostings.com

Edited
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Guest
Jul 28
Replying to

Thanks so much Beth!

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Barbs
Jul 24

 I'm glad to read a list of plants, but don't recognize some plants in your pics: non-native peonies, a sweetshrub (Calycanthus floridus), a couple of anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum), and a wild violet ground cover (Viola sororia), goldenrod (solidago), mountain mint (Pycnanthemum), wild hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens), heuchera 'Autumn Bride' (Heuchera villosa 'Autumn Bride') and two types of carex. Could it work to circle them? Right now my garden need plants, besides Aster divaricatatus (it's flourishing) that could grow in dry shade next to mature maple in small front yard. Maybe coralberry shrubs will grow next to tall maple in dry shade?

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Guest
Jul 28
Replying to

Hi - you should be able to get photos of these plants by clicking on the links in your note. Here is one for coralberry shrub: https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/symphoricarpos-orbiculatus/


Coralberry shrubs shoudl withstand dry shade once established. I think planting it next to a tree will depend on how close to the tree you are -- most of the shrubs I have seen are already fairly large in size which can be challenging under a mature tree. Not sure if that is your situation or not! Goo dluck and thanks for reading!

Edited
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Rachel T
Jul 24

As usual, this is a really timely post! I am going to try to edit my very messy, wild front garden which currently has big, bushy Astors, coneflower, and black eyed Susan’s falling all over themselves, to say nothing of the wild craziness of various native shrubs. I don’t love the overall look right now, though I do love providing for pollinators. Gosh, it’s an ongoing journey.

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Rebecca
Jul 24

I didn't realize I could edit my photos with my phone as you have done in this post. Such a helpful tip! As someone who wants to grow ALL the plants, editing is something that I find difficult. However, I do also like a certain degree of tidiness..........

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allison
Jul 24

I also muse on this subject with a fair amount of internal conflict (to remove or not to remove). For the same reasons you note: in particular, the unedited version is not especially "legible" or orderly and is thus unattractive to non-converts to a native garden (and to me also, though to a lesser degree). I also include in my thought process that the natives that volunteer (like coralberry) may reveal what is truly native to my specific area (vs. I.e. to mid atlantic or east coast, etc) and I want to respect that and give them a chance). So it takes me a while, sometimes more than one season to decide. But boy the coralberry in my sun garden…

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Guest
Jul 24
Replying to

Thanks so much for this insight. I love the idea of giving great respect to the natives that volunteer. If a plant volunteers it will likely thrive. -- a great way to choose your plants. Wonderful!


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We want you to be as excited about planting Chesapeake natives as we are. “Plant This or That” gives you a native alternative to popular plants. Other posts highlight really fabulous fauna native to the Chesapeake.

Nuts for Natives, avid gardener, Baltimore City admirer, Chesapeake Bay Watershed restoration enthusiast, and public service fan.

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